TESTAMATTA 2013

Monica Larner 93 points www.robertparker.com
Bibi Graetz applies his unique winemaking philosophy to a can-do-no-wrong vintage. The 2013 Testamatta (100% Sangiovese) opens to a deep and dark ruby color and smoky aromas of cigar ash, crushed stone, licorice, grilled herb and dried cassis. Make no mistake: This is one of the most original and off-the-radar expressions of Sangiovese you will ever taste. There is managed rusticity here that matches the imperfection and the undeniable beauty of the artwork that graces its label. Those bright blue and yellow brush strokes offer major contrast, yet together they reach harmony. That seems to be the overriding message of this wine that is otherwise loaded with personality and charm.

Bibi Graetz is a proud off-the-grid winemaker. His wines are an expression of a personal philosophy first and foremost. Territory and grape variety are the tools used to deftly express that philosophy. Sangiovese plays a prominent role and the wines are very silky, subdued and elegant as a result. Territory is an interesting wild card to play because Bibi Graetz farms in Tuscany’s Fiesole (just outside the Florence city limits) and the Giglio island just off the Tuscan coast. The white wine Bugia is made on the island and there is absolutely no mistaking that deeply mineral and saline imprint that comes from the salty waters of the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. The wine offers a fascinating perspective on a little known (and delicious) morsel of the terrestrial paradise that is Italy, as do his other wines.