Hermitage “la Chapelle” 2012

Description

Commentaire de Robert Parker 95-97 (décembre 2013)
The flagship 2012 Hermitage La Chapelle is a gorgeous effort that should be one of the top handful of wines in the vintage. Coming mostly from the domaine’s 17 acres in the warmer Le Meal lieu-dit and aged 15-18 months in 20% new French oak, it exhibits a tight, structured feel, with ample graphite, blackberry, roasted meats, espresso and licorice aromas and flavors all flowing from the glass. Full-bodied, incredibly pure and with masses of fine tannin, it’s blockbuster stuff that will require short-term cellaring to become approachable and have 2-3 decades of overall evolution.

Since 2006, owner Caroline Frey has been steadily pushing for increased quality at this historic estate. Moving all of the vineyards to sustainable farming (which takes years to see benefits), both the vineyard and cellar staff have been doubled. In addition, a new gravity operated cellar was set up in 2010. All of this shows, and across the board, the wines have impeccably made, clean and pure profiles. Looking at the individual Northern Rhône appellations, this estate produces four Hermitage (La Chapelle, La Chapelle Blanc, Le Petite Chapelle and Les Chevalier de Stérimberg), four Crozes Hermitage (Domaine de Thalabert, Domaine Mule Blanche, Domaine de Roure and Domaine de Roure Blanc), one Côte Rôtie (Domaine des Pierrelles), one Cornas (Domaine de Saint Pierre), one Saint Joseph (Domaine de la Croix des Vignes) and one Condrieu (Domaine des Grands Amandiers). Looking at 2011, Caroline stated that it was easy to get ripeness, and harvest was early to avoid heat stress on the grapes. Of the three most recent vintages (2011, 2012 and 2013), 2011 had the highest yields, with both 2012 and 2013 seeing a significant drop. I was able to taste a number of these wines twice, once in a larger lineup covering the individual appellations, and again at a tasting at the domaine, with Caroline and oenologist Jacques Desvernois.