GrVins
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Sauternes 1er cru supérieur Logé en caisse bois d’origine de 3 ou 1 bouteille(s) 75cl Yves Beck > yvesbeck.wine 98 | Gerogina Hindle > Decanter 96 | Jean-Marc Quarin > quarin.com 97 | Neal Martin > Vinous.com 97
335.11 CHF (310.00 CHF HT)
Yves Beck 98 points www.yvesbeck.wine
Dégusté le 19.12.2022 par Yves Beck
70% Sémillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc
Le vin révèle beaucoup de fruit frais, de manière intense. Agrumes, zeste d’oranges et verveine par exemple. L’attaque est suave et saline et le vin affiche une belle crémosité contrecarrée par une salinité qui recadre la douceur, sans l’écraser mais en l’accompagnant jusqu’en fin de bouche. C’est là que l’amertume prend le relais et étire la finale en compagnie de la structure acide. Il en résulte un vin d’une exceptionnelle précision et d’une grande persistance. L’avantage pour nous : on pourra le boire à tous les stades de sa vie ! La fraîcheur du bouquet est un élément-clé. Maintenant – 2060
Neal Martin 97 www.vinous.com The 2020 Yquem, a blend of 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc, cropped at a measly 10hl/ha, has a very sensual bouquet. It’s pretty mercurial as it unfolds in the glass, with scents of freshly sliced white peaches, almonds and pineapple. The oak is beautifully integrated, and allowing it further time, there are additional scents of Vervain tea, pressed white flowers and saffron. The palate makes an immediate impact with a mineral-rich, surprisingly saline entry that lends it edginess right from the off. The poise in this Yquem rivets you to the spot. Compared to recent vintages, this keeps everything buttoned down and tightly controlled until the finish, whereupon it fans out with nascent swagger. Stem ginger, caramelized pear and orange rind notes are delivered with excellent delineation. This animated and opulent Yquem is destined to age gracefully over the coming decades.
Jean-Marc Quarin 97 points www.quarin.com Beau nez de fruits et d’amande fraîche. Bouche complexe, particulièrement aromatique, évoluant sur un toucher magique et un corps fondant. Grande profondeur finale. Encore meilleur que la dernière fois.
Georgina Hindle 96 points www.decanter.com (at Château d’Yquem, 22 Mar 2023) A masterclass in purity and delicacy for this 2020 vintage which manages to convey the beauty and allure of Yquem in a toned down, subtle and beguiling way. Aromas of white blossom and honeysuckle, gently caramelised Mirabelle plums and fresh apricots with flecks of clementine and grapefruit pith abound on the nose – richly scented in their individual aspects but delivered quietly, almost sultry and shy. Immediately mouthfilling and unctuous, streamlined and fresh with a sugary hit hitting first before mouthwatering acidity follows giving sumptuous succulence and vibrancy. Apricot, peach, fleshy mango and sharp pineapple give the exotic fruit zing balanced by a salty, flintiness that adds faint angles to the expression. Juicy, bright, clean and complete with hints of cinnamon spice and just-toasted bread providing the frame and structure reminding you that this is built to last. It’s not as opulent as some vintages, much more understated and relaxed – and coincidentally one of the lowest in residual sugar at 135g/l – but this is a wonderful expression with control and confidence on show. It also has supreme drinkability even now with tension, clarity and energy so don’t be afraid to open and enjoy this in its joyful youth. The 2020 is the smallest production since 2000 with an equivalent of 35,000 bottles made. All stock will be released for sale on 23rd March with only a small number of bottles kept back for the estate’s library collection. 3.79pH. The vintage was challenging in terms of viticulture with tropical spring-like weather delivering early budburst and high mildew pressure, especially given it was the estate’s first year of official organic conversion. June was wet and cool followed by a hot, dry summer. Botrytis arrived in mid-October but there was only a small window of five days and two separate passes to harvest grapes with perfect noble rot.