Château YQUEM 2019

Description

Jean-Marc Quarin 97 points www.quarin.com
Couleur jaune pâle. Nez intense, fin, subtil, complexe, profond et noble. Cette splendide ambiance aromatique demeure difficile à décrire. La bouche s’ouvre sur un monde de subtilités aériennes. Très complexe, soyeux, cristallin, le vin fond au palais avant d’offrir en finale, oh surprise, la noblesse rôtie des raisins confits. Impossible à cracher. Assemblage : 45 % de sauvignon et 55 % de sémillon. Sucres résiduels : 138 gr/l. pH : 3,90. Ce vin est issu d’un petit rendement de 10 hl/ha. Sélection : 50 % de la récolte. Il s’agit du second millésime après le 2013 à posséder autant de sauvignon dans l’assemblage.

Yves Beck 97 points www.yvesbeck.wine
Dégusté le 20.03.2022 par Yves Beck
55% Sémillon, 45% Sauvignon Blanc
Avec 45%, Yquem 2019 affiche la part de Sauvignon Blanc la plus élevée de l’histoire du château ! Dans le contexte de Sauternes, le climat chaud et sec de septembre a certes permis une belle montée de la concentration dans les baies au mois de septembre, mais il a fallu attendre début octobre pour bénéficier des pluies propices au développement du botrytis, mais sa propagation a été très lente. Finalement, la fenêtre de récolte a été très courte, puisqu’elle s’est déroulée entre le 7 octobre (quelques parcelles de Sauvignon) et 13 octobre. L’élevage s’est déroulé dans 100% de barriques neuves durant 21 mois. Le vin affiche 138gr de sucre résiduel et une acidité totale de 4,5. Belle complexité du bouquet qui se révèle peu à peu. Il affiche des nuances de basilique, de menthe et de bonbons Ricola et de poivre blanc. A l’aération ce sont des parfums de fleurs d’oranger et d’ananas. Le vin a du corps, de la densité et est doté d’une agréable et rafraîchissante vivacité, malgré une acidité plus basse que d’habitude. C’est un Yquem que l’on pourra déjà apprécier dans sa jeunesse, ce qui ne prétérite néanmoins aucunement son aptitude à vieillir.  2026-2059

Andy Howard MW 97 points  www.decanter.com (at Wine Source Tasting, London, 10 Sep 2019)
The 2019 vintage of Château d’Yquem has the highest proportion (45%) of Sauvignon Blanc in any modern Yquem. The Sauvignon Blanc adds to the freshness, acting as a great balance to the succulent, sweet and voluptuous palate. Intense peach and apricot, combined with lemon and orange zest, make this highly appealing to drink right away – an ideal vintage with which to start Yquem’s ‘lighthouse’ project. However, it would be a shame not to give this 10+ years maturation to see how it develops. Very well, I suspect. The growing season was both warm and wet, with mildew a big threat. After a mostly dry September, 40mm rain came at the end of the month, leading to a very short harvest window. All of the Yquem grapes were picked in two tries within a one-week period. Residual Sugar: 138g/L.

Neal Martin 98 www.vinous.com

Owners LVMH took the decision to delay the release of the 2019 Yquem until spring 2022. It was tasted with winemaker Sandrine Garbay in London. After the summer drought when Sauternes received just 2.5mm of rain until 26 July, that day saw a 112mm deluge that replenished underground reserves and gave ripening the push it needed. Dry and warm conditions prevailed throughout September when there was no sign of botrytis infection. That was finally provoked by 38mm of rain between 21 and 25 of September, followed by warm clement weather. After minor picking of Sauvignon Blanc on 7 of October, the main harvest began in earnest on 10 October. Pickers worked over the following five days, including Sunday. Time was of the essence because, as forecasts predicted, the weather suddenly changed on 14 of October with 40mm or rain. After that, the picking teams skirted between showers between 17 and 22 of October, though by now the fruit had begun to deteriorate. Therefore, the key aspect of this Yquem is the extremely tight picking window. The final blend contains 138g/L residual sugar, which is slightly less than the previous vintage, with 5.5g/L total acidity and 14.4% alcohol. Tasting the 2019, I noticed that it has a slightly paler hue compared to recent vintages (though I never read too much into the colour of young Sauternes.) For certain, it has a highly-aromatic bouquet that is beguiling in purity, enticing aromas of honeysuckle and saffron, soon joined by camomile, white flowers and orange blossom. It has wonderful delineation and gains intensity with aeration. The palate is supremely well-balanced with fine bead of acidity. Very harmonious and armed with just the right amount of viscosity, this Yquem is surprisingly understated at first but gains presence, offering irresistible flavours of layers of honey, lemongrass, lemon thyme and orange pith. Yquem is so tempting in its youth, but I feel that this vintage will repay those with the nous to cellar for at least a decade.