GrVins
Sélection et importation de vins fins
Pauillac premier cru classé en 1855 Logé en caisse bois de 6 bouteilles 75 cl Parker 100 | Quarin 100 | Galloni 100 | Martin 100 | Yves Beck 101 Le vin du millésime ?
783.73 CHF (725.00 CHF HT)
Lisa Perrotti-Brown 100 points www.erobertparker.com The 2016 Mouton Rothschild is a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, with the Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot vinified together. It has a very deep purple-black color and slowly slides out of the glass with spicy notes of Sichuan pepper, cloves and cinnamon stick giving way to a core of perfumed black fruits and florals—blackcurrant cordial, candied violets, blackberry compote, rose hips and black plums—plus suggestions of espresso, damp soil, tar and beef drippings. Medium-bodied, the palate is very firmly structured and jam-packed with latent energy about to burst, offering superbly ripe, grainy tannins and bold freshness to support the intense floral and black fruit layers and finishing very long and very minerally. Powerful, profound wine.
Mouton’s congenial managing director, Philippe Dhalluin, was unfortunately in Napa while I was in Bordeaux in October, so I was hosted by Eric Tourbier—Mouton’s technical director—and Clerc-Milon’s winemaker, Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy. While discussing the particularly abundant range of aroma/flavor compounds I was perceiving in the 2016 reds, Danjoy commented, “When you have a wet spring, you tend to have more aromatic precursors. Also, it was a long maturation period. The vine made a lot of aromatic components. The gap between the Merlot and the Cabernet Sauvignon for ripening was very long. In fact, Cabernet was very late this year. We didn’t know if the Cabernet Sauvignon was going to make it! The big surprise for us was the Cabernet Franc—all of it was delicious. We used it all in the grand vin at Clerc Milon.” When we came to taste Le Petit Mouton and Mouton Rothschild, Eric Tourbier, smiling like the cat that got the cream, said simply, “It was a dry summer. We had very small berries and a good level of ripeness.” He then added, matter-of-factly, “I’ve been at Mouton for 30 years. I think this is my best vintage. The 2016 may be compared to the 1986?” Maybe, but while I’m a huge lover of the incredibly provocative and sometimes formidable 1986 (I had it again just a few weeks ago), I’m thinking this 2016 is going to give a lot more hedonic pleasure in its first 25 years in bottle than the 1986—just coming around now—certainly did.
Neal Martin 100 points www.vinous.com The 2016 Mouton Rothschild bowled me over when I tasted it from barrel. Philippe Dhalluin compares it to the 1986 in terms of intensity of fruit, although there is more maturity and refinement in the tannins apropos of the 2016. Bottled in July 2018, this has an intense bouquet with pixelated black fruit, crushed stone, hints of blue fruit and a touch of India ink. But it is the delineation and focus that take your breath away. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannin framing the pure black currant and cassis fruit. The acidity is pitch-perfect, and there is a gentle but insistent grip toward the extraordinarily long finish. Racking my brains to think of another Mouton Rothschild that I have tasted over the last 20 years that was as good as this, I simply cannot come up with one.
Antonio Galloni 100 points www.vinous.com A towering, thrilling wine, the 2016 Mouton Rothschild is unbelievably beautiful today. Aromatics, fruit density and vertical structure all come together. In the glass, the 2016 is remarkably vivid and powerful, and yet a gentler, more feminine side emerges with time in the glass. The intense, mineral, savory profile recalls the 1986, but the 2016 has more grace, inner sweetness and sophistication than that wine. Even so, the 2016 is going to need at least a number of years in bottle before it starts drinking well, although it won’t be the bruiser the 1986 remains to this day. This is breathtaking wine from Mouton, Tecnical Director Philippe Dhalluin and his team.
Jean-Marc Quarin 100 points www.quarin.com Le meilleur jamais fait. Couleur sombre, noire, belle, pourpre. Nez intense, fin, fruité, subtil, profond, pur, que je n’ai jamais vu aussi floral. Entrée en bouche majestueuse et le vin ample et de suite plein, se développe puissant, riche et complexe en milieu de bouche. Il s’y arrête quelques instants puis se trame finement, pousse sur les joues et s’achève extrêmement long, sèveux, toujours très noble dans sa texture et son goût merveilleux de cabernet sauvignon. Extraordinaire. Bravo ! 2030 – 2100. Assemblage : 83 % cabernet sauvignon, 15 % merlot, 1 % cabernet franc, 1 % petit verdot. Degré d’alcool : 13,4° (dans la moyenne plus) – pH : 3,7 (dans la moyenne moins).
Yves Beck 101 points www.yvesbeck.wine dégusté le 21.11.2018 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot Pourpre profond aux reflets violets. Quel bouquet bouleversant, exceptionnel, fascinant. D’une subtilité et d’une finesse époustouflante, ce nez pose les jalons et crée une émotion intense. La mise en bouche est gracieuse, imposante, élégante. Bien évidemment, le palais continue dans cette ligne. Il est à la fois imposant de par sa puissance mais surtout impressionnant de par sa finesse. Le côté aromatique se révèle avec subtilité et gagne rapidement en intensité, en prenant place dans l’ensemble du palais, tandis que la structure acide assure brillamment les arrières et, en synthèse avec les tannins, assurent un brillant avenir. Je pense que Mouton 2016 est le digne successeur de 1986 et 1945… respectivement, un jour, il sera sur le podium des plus grands Mouton Rothschild. Finale fraîche, juteuse et persistante. 2028-2076 101/100